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Broadcasting Flower Seeds in the Garden
Do you enjoy the riot of color and dense planting
of a cottage garden? The most economical way
to create this effect is to broadcast seed directly
in the ground. You’ll also get a more naturalized look,
and growing from seed allows you to choose from a
much wider color palette. There are some challenges
to broadcasting seed, so here are some tips to help
your flower garden grow lush and healthy.
1. Soil preparation is important because a dense
planting will need more water and nutrients than rows
of flowers. Also, soil clods can interfere with germination.
Amend the soil with organic matter, such as composted
manure or compost, and dig or till to loosen the soil.
Rake the surface smoothly.
2. Seeds are generally sown only 1 or 1 ½ times as
deep as they are wide. If planted deeper, the sprouts
will run out of energy before they can break the surface
of the soil. Check the seed packets for instructions on
planting depth.
You can broadcast different varieties of seeds all in
one bed, or designate certain areas of the bed for
specific varieties. If you are sowing more than
one variety in the same area, plant the larger seeds
first and cover them with loose soil, then sow the
smaller seeds and cover them.
3. Large seeds, such as morning glories and sweet
peas, will germinate faster if you soak them overnight
before planting.
4. Keep the surface of the planting bed moist at all
times until the seedlings appear. Then focus your
watering efforts on watering deeply and less often.
Use a nozzle with many small holes so the stream
of water is gentle and doesn’t wash away the seeds.
5. If birds are getting the seeds, you may have to
place a floating row cover over the bed until the
seedlings have emerged.
6. After the seedlings develop two sets of true leaves,
thin them so they aren’t too close together, but don’t
worry about spacing them as far apart as generally
recommended. After all, you’re aiming for a more
naturalized look, and nature doesn’t space plants
uniformly apart. Use scissors to cut the seedlings
off at ground level instead of pulling them out of the
ground so you don’t disturb the roots of nearby plants.
7. Distinguishing the weeds from the flower seedlings
will likely be your biggest challenge. If you are in doubt
about whether a particular young plant is a weed or a
flower, try to find it elsewhere in your garden. If it’s
pervasive you can be sure it’s a weed. Consulting a
weed book will also be helpful.
Recognizing the flowers by their foliage will be easier
once they get their first set of true leaves, which is
actually their second set of leaves. (The first set of
leaves that emerge do not look like the leaves that
will follow.)
8. Hold off on mulching for a few weeks because some
seeds are slow to germinate and you don’t want to bury
them beneath the mulch. If possible, use a small particle
mulch, such as cocoa hulls, because it’s easier to spread
around all the seedlings and it’s less damaging to tender
stems than bark mulch.
9. Try some of these flowers that are easy to grow from
seed in the garden: cosmos, larkspur, marigolds, morning
glories, nasturtiums, sunflowers, sweet peas, and zinnias.
Tips for Seed-starting Success
Nothing makes spring seem just around the corner
more than starting new flowers and vegetables for
your upcoming garden. As you prepare to fill your
windowsills and light stands with flats and pots,
here are some tips for meeting the needs of your
seedlings and keeping them healthy.
Planting
1. Use sterile, soil-less mix to fill your flats. This type
of mix is disease-free, provides good aeration, and
retains moisture.
2. Sow seeds the recommended depth, gently firm
the soil to ensure good contact between seeds and
soil, and then cover the flats with plastic to increase
the humidity for better germination. As soon as the
seeds germinate, remove the plastic to allow room
for growth.
Temperature
1. Most seeds germinate well at about 70 degrees F.
(If seeds have special temperature requirements for
germination, this will be listed on the seed packet.)
Burpee’s Electra Grow Mat provides heat underneath
your flats so you don’t need to keep an entire room
temperature-controlled for your seeds.
2. Once the seedlings have broken the surface of the
soil, the heating mat should be removed and the plants
should be grown at slightly cooler temperatures.
High temperatures can cause weak, leggy growth.
Light
1. Seedlings grown on a windowsill will not receive
the same intensity of light they will receive under
grow lights, and they will tend to stretch. Grow lights
provide the ideal light, and they can be left on for
14 to 16 hours a day. Cool white fluorescent bulbs
also provide good light. Be sure to replace any
bulbs about every 3 years because they lose
their intensity.
2. Keeping the lights close to the seedlings will promote
the healthiest growth. As the seedlings grow, raise the
lights so that they remain about 2 inches above the plants.
Water
1. As long as the growing mix is well moistened when
you sow the seeds, you probably won’t need to water
until the seedlings emerge. If the surface of the mix does
dry out, water gently. Moistening the surface with a spray
bottle may be all that’s needed.
2. Once the seedlings are under lights, the growing mix
will dry out more quickly. Water gently to keep the mix
moist but not soggy.
Questions
Q. When should I begin fertilizing my seedlings?
A. If you transplant your seedlings as soon as they get
their second set of true leaves, you probably won’t need
to fertilize. If your plants spend a bit too long in their
original flat before being transplanted, they could use
some fertilizer. Use a water-soluble, balanced fertilizer,
and be careful not to overdo it.
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